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On The Characteristics of One-Dimensional Spectra And Non-dimensional Parameters of Wind Waves - Wave Hindcast Model Using the Hybrid-parameter Method (2nd report)-

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Report 032-01-03 1993.03
Author(s) Chiaki GOTO,Toshio AONO
Department
/Divison
Hydraulic Engineering Division Ocean Energy Utilization Laboratory
Executive Summary

 In order to obtain the basic knowledge on growth of wind waves, relationship between wind speed and significant wave parameters and characteristics of frequency spectra were investigated by using the data measured at Osaka Bay and 13 points along Japanese coasts. The main results were as follows:
1. It was confirmed that the measured wind waves data were satisfied the 3/2 power low which was an empirical formula between non-dimensional wave height and period. The 3/2 power law was also extended in shallow water region by using shoaling coefficient.
2. The slope of wind wave spectra at high frequency region was approximated by a function of -4 power.
3. In growth stage, the energy density of wind wave spectra was concentrated near peak frequency band. Owing to increase fetch, it gradually approached Pierson-Mo
skowitz spectrum.
4. The new standard spectrum form of wind waves based on JONSWAP spectrum was obtained. The spectrum could be applied wind waves in both deep and shallow water region. The spectrum could be calculated by significant wave height and period, and a greement with measured spectrum was very well.

PDF File /en/pdf/en/vol032-no01-03.pdf