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Changes of Grain Distribution of Bed Material in the Surf Zone -Field Observation at Hazaki Oceanographical Research-

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Report 029-02-02 1990.06
Author(s) Kazumasa KATOH,Shin-ichi YANAGISHIMA,Yoshiaki KURIYAMA,Tomoyoshi ISOGAMI,Hiroyuki MURAKAMI,Makoto FUJITA
Department
/Divison
Hydraulic Engineering Division Littoral Drift Laboratory
Executive Summary

 Bed materials have been sampled 15 times during one and half years along the research pier at Hazaki Oceanographical Research Facility with the cross-shore interval of 10 meters. Two of them have been carried out just before and after the large storm. The samples were analyzed with sieves. By comparing the cross-shore distributions of grain size compositon before and after the storm, an actual condition of sorting is investigated. The changes of grain distribution in the accretionary process are examined.
 The main conclusions are as follows:
(1) The bed materials are sorted in the storm, so that median diameters are 0.18mm in the bar area, 0.6mm in the trough area, and 0.3mm in the step area. In these area, the grain distribution are unimodal compositions.
(2) In the accretionary process, the grain distributution in the bar area does not change. That in the trough area changes to the bimodal one with two peaks of 0.6mm and 0.18mm in diameters, and further to the unimodal one with median diameter 0.18mm. In the step area, intermediate materials of 0.3mm in diameter are moved onshore-ward.

PDF File /en/pdf/en/vol029-no02-02.pdf