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Analysis of Edge Waves by Means of Empirical Eigenfunctions

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Report 020-03-01 1981.09
Author(s) Kazumasa KATOH
Department
/Divison
Hydraulic Engineering Division Senior Research Engineer
Executive Summary

This report shows the existence of the standing edge waves by analyzing the longshore variations of wave run-up fronts on the foreshore by means of the empirical eigenfunctions. The long-shore variations of wave run-up fronts were read from the aerophotographs at Sendai Beach, Japan, in 1979.
 The following items are demonstrated: (1) The analyzed standing edge waves agree well with those of cut-off mode predicted by Ball's theory. (2) An amplitude of the standing edge wave is inversely propertional to its wave number (or frequency).(3) Those standing edge waves are also recongnized in the cross-spectra of the current velosities measured at the same time in the surf zone.

PDF File /en/pdf/en/vol020-no03-01.pdf