Coastal and Estuarine Environment Department

Tips

Useless Tips
Please use at user's risk. All programs and documents are in Japanese

Wave deformation-refraction, shoaling and breaking

Wave deformation-refraction, shoaling and breaking DownLoad

$Wave deformation-refraction, shoaling and breakingの画像$

This program can calculate wave height, wave direction and water depth at the wavebreaking point from the input value of offshore wave height, period, direction and beach slope.
Left graph shows wave deformation of offshore wave height=1m, period=10s, direction=30degree and beach slope=1/60.
Black line is wave of refraction and shoaling of small amplitude wave theory, Pink line shoaling of non-linear longwave (Syuto, 1974), Red line wave breaking cliteria (goda, 1975).

To Japanese

Distribution of wave height, current and bedload

Distribution of wave height, current and bedload DownLoad

Distribution of wave height, current and bedloadの画像

This program can calculate the distribution of wave height, wave induced current and bedload from the input value of offshore wave height, period, direction and beach slope.
Left graph shows wave height distribution(left), current(mid), bedload(right) with the condition of offshore wave height=1m, period=9s, direction=10degree and beach slope=1/60.

To Japanese