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A Numerical Model for Sculpture Due to Wave Run-up and Long Period Flow Generated by Wave Group Deformation

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Technical Note 1062 2003.09
Author(s) Satoshi NAKAMURA
Department
/Divison
Marine Environment and Engineering Department Sedimentary Environments Division
Executive Summary

 Beach managements for land protection, tidal flat development and nature conservation around shore facility requires that more fine prediction of waves, currents and beach profille changes should be done. The fine prediction has to be considered not only wave deformation due to topography and shore facility but currents variation, large wave run-up and over-flow on the beach, that occur deformation of wave groups. However, such numerical model for unsteady wave and flow including moving boundary at the shoreline needs long computation time and large resources. For the practical prediction, numerical model also needs ability of calculation in wide area, high resolution and speed.
 In this paper numerical model for 2DH beach profile change due to wave, current and wave run-up that generated by deformation of wave groups are developed. In the wave model wave group are treated as amplitude modified regular wave, and moving boundary are calculated by flux model with finite volume method in the flow model.
 Model results of wave, current and wave run-up are tested with exist experimental results and theoretical results. Trial calculations are curried out in a case of beach profile change with large wave run-up and over-flow in the field. Model result of location of large wave run-up on the beach has a good agreement with field survey.

PDF File /en/pdf/en/no1062.pdf