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Wave Height and Fraction of Breaking Waves on a Bar-Trough Beach -Field measurments at HORS and Modeling-
Publication year | Port and Airport Research Institute Report 035-01-01 1996.03 |
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Author(s) | Yoshiaki KURIYAMA,Yasushi OZAKI |
Department /Divison |
Marine Environment Division Senior Research Engineer |
Executive Summary | Field measurements of wave height and the fraction of breaking waves on longshore bars and troughs are conducted at Hazaki Oceanographical Research Station(HORS) facing the Pacific Ocean. The fraction of breaking waves decreases toward the shore on a trough, and the decrease rate depends on topographic properties of the bar;the decrease rate increases as the water depth at the bar crest decreases or as the bar height, the difference between the water depth at the trough and that at the bar crest, increases. Field data obtained on the troughs show that the wave height-water depth ratio at wave reforming decreases as the wave period decreases. Compared with the wave height-water depth ratios in a small-scale experiment, most ratios in the field are small. |
PDF File | /en/pdf/en/vol035-no01-01.pdf |