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Model Tests on Wave Overtopping Rate in Multi-sloped Beach

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Technical Note 0592 1987.06
Author(s) Tomotsuka TAKAYAMA,Masami FURUKAWA,Yoshihiro TATEISHI
Department
/Divison
Marine hydrodynamics Division Wave Laboratory
Executive Summary

 The present paper experimentally investigates the characteristics of wave overtopping rates and wave transformation in the multi-sloped beach, which represents submerged breakwater or artificial beach located in front of sea walls. The following are main conclusions drawn from the experiments:
 1) In the beach which change from steep to gentle. strong wave breaking takes place on the gentle slope near the point of slope inflection. The wave breaking in
duces large set-up there. However, the wave height gradually approaches to the height on uniform gentle slope.
 2) In the coast which changes from gentle to steep onshoreward, breaking waves on the gentle slope cease breaking on the steep slope and when the waves propagate shallower area on the steep slope the waves begin to break and the wave height decreases according to the estimation curve of wave heights in the surf zone by Goda.
 3) The empirical formula for the estimation of the relative crest height ratio is presented.
 4) In the case of the bottom slope change from steep to gentle, the above ratio decreases gradually, but in the case of the bottom slope change from gentle to s
teep the ratio increases rappidly and after the ratio reaches maximum value, it decreases steeply.

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