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One-dimensional Spectra of Wind waves in coastal waters

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Report 022-03-04 1983.09
Author(s) Munekazu HIROSE,Yuji TACHIBANA,Kazuteru SUGAHARA
Department
/Divison
Hydraulic Engineering Division Senior Research Engineer
Executive Summary

This paper discusses about the applicability of the JONSWAP spectrum and the Wallops spectrum to observed wind wave spectra and the properties of parameters of these spectral models, using 14 spectra observed in coastal waters around Japan. As a result, we propose a new spectral model, called the PH spectrum, as

 SPH(f)=αg2(2π)-4f-5exp[-1.25(fm/f)4]γG(τ/τm)
 G(f/fm)=δa(f/fm-1),  for (δa-1/δa)fm≦f≦fm
      =δb(1-f/fm)+1, for fm≦f≦(δb+1/δb)fm

 According to the results of fitting the observed spectra to the above three spectral models, the PH spectrum gives the almost same good fit as the JONSWAP spectrum, and the Wallops spectrum, however, seems to be required an addition of some parameter or multiplier for the good fit.
 The parameters, α and γ, can be represented as a function of the steepness with high correlation. The variation of the shape parameters, σ and δ, is very small and the mean values of these are given as 0.108,0.109, and 3.86,3.82 for the lower and the highter frequency range, respectively.

PDF File /en/pdf/en/vol022-no03-04.pdf