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Wave Observation at the Port of Nagoya, Third Report -diffraction and statistics of wind waves-

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Technical Note 0120 1971.06
Author(s) Yoshimi GODA,Kohei NAGAI,Masahiko ITO
Department
/Divison
Hydraulic Engineering Division Wave Laboratory
Executive Summary

Analyses are made for the surface wave records under strong winds obtained with capacitance probes at three stations inside and outside the storm surge breakwater of Nagoya Port during 1969/1970.
 The power spectra of waves inside the breakwater are compared with the spectra of diffracted waves through two harbor entrances; the diffracted wave spectra are estimated with the spectra of outside waves and the assumption of linear transformation. The comparison indicates that the waves inside the breakwater can be described as the superposition of diffracted waves and locally-generated wind waves.
 The analysis of wave profiles yields quantitative evaluation of the following wave statistics:i) nonlinearity of surface elevation, ii) applicability of the Ray leigth distribution for wave heigths, iii) deviation of the densities of maxima and zero-up crossings estimated with the moments of power spectra from those directly obtained from wave profiles, iv) mean length of the run of wave heights, etc.

PDF File /en/pdf/en/no0120.pdf