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On the Spectrum of Irregular Waves Generated by the Variable Motion of Wave Paddles

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Report 008-03-03 1969.09
Author(s) Yoshimi GODA,Kohei NAGAI
Department
/Divison
Hydraulic Engineering Division Wave Laboratory
Executive Summary

 A simple technique has been developed for the generation of irregular waves in a wave channel. The technique is characterized by the producibility of any given spectrum of irregular waves by means of the frequency control of regular wave generators.
 The energy spectrum density of irregular waves generated by a variable motion of a wave paddle can be calculated as the sum of energy of every regular wave within an infinitesimal time.
 An experiment was performed with the frequency controlled motions of two wave paddles. The motions were determiend on the basis of the above theory. In this experiment the train of irregular waves which had the desired spectrum was generated satisfactorily. The statistical characteristics of the experimental wave heights and their orders of appearance were in agreement with those of actual wind waves observed at the Port of Nagoya.

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