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WAVE OBSERVATION AT THE PORT OF NAGOYA - Analysis of the Records of Wind-Generated Surface Waves Observed at the Inside of the Port -

Publication year Port and Airport Research Institute Technical Note  0061 1968.12
Author(s) Yoshimi GODA,Kohei NAGAI
Department
/Divison
Machinery Division Hydraulie Transportation Laboratory
Executive Summary

 The records of surface waves at short fetches of about 3km which had been obtained with a capacitance-type wave probe were analysed for their statistical nature and spectral characteristics. The data anaylsed represent the case when the wind blew with relatively high speed without change of direction.
 The frequency distributions of surface elevations and their maxima were compared with the Gaussian distribution. Then the skewness of surface elevations and the spectral width parameter were discussed. The frequency distributions of wave heights and zero-up crossing periods were compared with the Rayleigh distribution.
 In one record of waves generated by gradually increasing wind, it was found that the variance coefficients of mean wind velocity and mean wave height have the same value of 0.2 and the relationship between the mean velocity and mean height is linear.
 In additions, comparisons of observed data with fetch graphs, one-dimensional energy spectra of theoretical ones, and Tucker's method for mean wave heights are presented.

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