Tips

Useless Tips

Please use at user's risk. All programs and documents are in Japanese

 Wave deformation-refraction, shoaling and breaking

Wave deformation-refraction, shoaling and breaking  DownLoad

This program can calculate wave height, wave direction and water depth at the wavebreaking point from the input value of offshore wave height, period, direction and beach slope.
Left graph shows wave deformation of offshore wave height=1m, period=10s, direction=30degree and beach slope=1/60.
Black line is wave of refraction and shoaling of small amplitude wave theory, Pink line shoaling of non-linear longwave (Syuto, 1974), Red line wave breaking cliteria (goda, 1975).  

 

 

Distribution of wave height, current and bedload

Distribution of wave height, current and bedload DownLoad 

This program can calculate the distribution of wave height, wave induced current and bedload from the input value of offshore wave height, period, direction and beach slope.
Left graph shows wave height distribution(left), current(mid), bedload(right) with the condition of offshore wave height=1m, period=9s, direction=10degree and beach slope=1/60.

 

Back to Top